The purpose of this article is to list a few preventative maintenance items which are not included in the annual service schedule. These deal mostly with potential electrolytic corrosion between steel and alloy components, and may apply also to the DB9 and other Gaydon cars. There is no cost.
- Lube and move the brake pad retaining pins in and out. These pins are notorious for seizing in the calliper , so keep them free. New callipers are very expensive!
- Loosen half a turn, and re-tighten calliper bleed nipples annually. Again, this will prevent seizure, and ensure that they can be loosened for a brake fluid change when due. Don't forget the clutch slave bleed nipple. I replaced all of mine this year because the protective plating was failing.
- Reach up and manually exercise each of the two valves in the exhaust tailpipes, perhaps adding a spray of WD40 or the like. These also tend to seize, sometimes partly closed.
- At least loosen and re-tighten the under-tray screws using a well fitting torx spanner, front and rear. I like to remove them completely and lube the threads. These screws seize for fun if not disturbed occasionally. Or replace them with hex headed or cap head screws, because the torx recesses are very easily damaged.
- Lightly lube around the middle of the wheel . This obviates seizing of the wheel on the hub spigot. Threads must be clean and dry when re-tightening the nuts to the correct torque.
I've had my manual V8V (2007) for 10 years, and do all my own maintenance, which frankly has so far been little more difficult than dealing with a Ford Fiesta. Completely reliable, and just back in the UK from a trip to Rimini.
The most time consuming maintenance job was the front timing cover seal - steady work, but not particularly problematic ; I did it over a pit.
Other non-routine jobs included replacing the alarm module, rear hatch struts, & battery. None difficult . Happy to share my knowledge with anyone facing the same job(s).