Changing the plugs and coils in the nearside bank, units 7 to 12.

6th May 2012 48068miles.

The Parts.

Switch off the power switch in the boot.


Remove cross brace and intake support bracket (note that the intake support bracket also has the cooling line connected to a bracket underneath it so be careful how you remove it).  Bleed the fuel lines (remove blue caps from the end of the fuel lines to access the Schraeder valves).Place plenty of rags to catch the fuel. Don’t have a fag yet! Press the centre pin in to bleed the valve.

 

Remove the catalyst chimneys.

Remove throttle (unplug connector) and induction duct. There is another hose coming into the induction duct underneath it. I found one side had a hose clip on and one side didn’t. However the side that did have the hose clip, the clip was loose. The parts book does not show a hose clip.

Remove all vacuum hoses.

Unplug all the injectors (the connectors are tagged) Unplug fuel pressure and temp sensors. Also remove the vacuum pipe from the fuel rail pressure sensor.

Unscrew the three bolts securing each fuel rail and pull the rail off the injectors. More fuel will spill so have rags ready.

Move fuel rails out of the way, move cooling pipe out of the way.

Remove the injectors. Note they are standard ford parts.

Disconnect the plate holding the blue and green connectors. This will allow the inlet manifold to be moved out of the way.

 

Remove the Inlet manifold bolts. The back one is a bit of a B and you have to lay across the engine to get at it. Make sure you don’t have buttons that will scratch the air filter cover.

 

Move inlet manifold out of the way. Remove inlet manifold gasket noting the way the raised bobbins are facing up. Cover the inlets in the heads with cardboard to prevent dropping anything into the head.

 

Remove the cover to access the coils and plugs. Disconnect the coils and pull the coils off the plugs.

Remove the plugs. Mine all came out easily. 

Visit the NGK website so that you know why the plugs are fitted dry. Fit the new plugs and torque to recommended figure (16-20 NM). Fit the new coils and reconnect the connections. Refit the cover. Note that the two fwd lower cover screws are different as they also secure the clips that hold the cable conduit.

Clean the inlet manifold face and the cylinder head face. Refit inlet manifold with new gasket.

Tightening sequence is front, back middle, second to front, second to back etc. Torque for the bolts 8-12NM but I don’t know how you will do the back one with a torque wrench. I just did it as tight as the others felt when I used the torque wrench. The head is aluminium so don’t try and see how strong you are.

Refit the plate above the exhaust that holds the blue and green connectors.

Refit the injectors with new o seals.

Refit fuel rails and plug everything back in.

Refit cooling pipe and then make sure you slide it into the bracket under the intake support bracket.

Refit throttle valve and intake duct. Don’t forget the hose that comes into the bottom of the induction duct.

Refit the cross brace.

 

Put the power back on to the car.

The workshop manual says that if you have depressurised the fuel system you have to do the following 10 times. Ignition on for 5 seconds, off for 10 seconds. Etc.

I then vented the fuel lines a couple of times until all the air was out of them.

Pressed the start button and the beast roared into life.

Hope I didn’t miss anything out.

Update October 2022

23rd September 2022 (82581 miles)

New plugs fitted. Inlet manifold gasket in good condition (refitted)

Injector o-rings: Bought from AstonMartinBits.com £70. Rip off. They can be bought from Polymax for 17p each (£4.08 for 24). Note top and bottom o-rings are the same but for some reason originals are blue and green. Aston bits charge more for the lower than the upper which is strange as the upper one is the important one as it is on the fuel rail. All their o-rings are black.  Polymax are black.

Spark plugs. NGK 5598  (PTR6D-13) £74.76 for 12 from Amazon.